Cliffs of Mercer Bay: Legend of Te Ahua o Hinerangi

“There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, Than are dreamt of in your philosophy.”

~ Shakespeare's Hamlet

---

The Mercer Bay loop is the perfect little walk at the end of Te Ahu Ahu Road, just off Piha Road right before its descent. The little-known track is by far one of my favourite walks in Auckland, a prime spot to revitalise and clear out mental clutter.

This one-hour hike is grand on a grand scale. Within the hour, your eyes and spirit will roam vast landscapes of lush mountain ranges, plunging cliffs, pristine blue seascapes – with an eagle's eye view of wild coastlines streaking north to Piha and south beyond Karekare.

It is a loop of epic proportions for a mere 1.4 km. It is also the site of legends and tragic tales: of lost love, of women vanishing without a trace, and of death by falling off the cliff.

Near the midpoint of the loop walk near Te Ahua Point, you come across the statue of Te Ahua o Hinerangi, appointed spirit guardian of the area. Hinerangi, the only daughter of the local Maori chief, lost her beloved husband to the oceans while fishing in Mercer Bay. Historian John Diamond describes Hinerangi's heartbreak then disappearance as follows:

"On the point near the Hikurangi pa she would sit everyday, gazing out of the restless ocean. Thus she pined, until one evening her spirit also went westward over the golden pathway of Tane to join her lover, but even today, from a certain position on the cliffs, one can see her life-size figure sitting there gazing out to sea, a sculptured form carved by the restless elements of Tangaroa, the ocean god, and Hauauru, the west wind."

In a strange parallel, three women had also disappeared from the Piha-Mercer area within the past decade or so – bodies unrecovered – in addition to the one woman plummeting to her death while taking a photo.

The cliffs tower more than 240 metres above the waves, higher than the height of the Skytower. It is not difficult to understand how trampers can lose their footing when mesmerised by the scenery, falling to their deaths.

Pets could also be at risk in this locality. A couple of occasions nearly induced heart attacks when the family dog, oblivious to danger, dashed with exuberance right to the knife's edge of the long drop.

Despite the haunting history of the loop, the idyllic setting of Mercer Bay has often called out to me, drawing me to its rugged trail, even in bad weather. There is both a lucid peace and joy which pervades the atmosphere, as if Hinerangi were really present – guarding and blessing those who venture within her spectacular terrain.

In light of the women's disappearances around this vicinity, hiking with a companion is advised. It is a trek I will happily do over and over again – no longer solo of course.

For more information on the Mercer Bay Loop, please refer to Auckland Council's website here.